Scared to death in Joburg

http://picasaweb.google.com/jono.chiu/joburg

Etosha National Park

Highlight of last weekend (another 4 day weekend) was seeing 2 lions (possibly Nala and Simba) mate. Other things I saw include Rafiki's tree, Pumbaa, Wilderbeasts and Antelopes (wait till you see these pics, you'll agree).

Wish I could say more, but busy planning for this coming weekend. Going for a weeklong road trip with Vince through Botswana and Zambia (possibly Zimbabwe if they take our bribe for the VISA). Gonna be a lot of driving!

The long weekend that just wasn't long enough

Just sitting on the bumpy non-air conditioned bus, sweating and reflecting on a long overdue weekend of great seafood, perfect weather and relaxation. After facing what I now realize to be culture shock and working into an ugly "bari angula" (take 2 pills in the morning) routine, I feel a renewed sense of energy for people in the clinic as well as our research. In the past month, I have had the opportunity to see people with both my eyes for the first time, but its very difficult to express all that goes on in ones mind other than to give a scene-by scene description, which never really does it justice.

After busing through 4 1/2 hours of arid land, the bus drove through the entrance of Swakop where gigantic pineapple shaped trees shot up from either side of the ground out of seemingly nowhere. This trail led us into Swakopmund. After moments of stepping in, I already had to remind myself that I was in Africa. The town was mostly filled with Afrikaaner whites if not tourists and the shops were both swanky and expensive (although I realize one usually leads to the other). Houses did not even have electric fences... which is something new to see.
"How many places in subsaharn Africa can you feel safe walking down a street in pitch black?"

This was the West coast of Namibia so my seafood craving was finally met by a poitke of mussels and fress raw oysters. Richard helped us organize a beach house (120 N$ which is 17$CDN for 3 nights). We had both a firepit and a semi-private beach in our backyard. As you hear the waves roll into the rocks and sand, pulling in pieces of mussle shells and dead jellyfish, you could feel all the stress roll back out. Walking along the beach, a few runners and dogs (that were actually NOT anorexic as compared to in Katutura where I work) would pass by with a smile.

This place is known for their enormous sand dunes and on no. 7, I sandboarded as the sun set. It is slower than snowboarding, but with the same equipment. Amanda, you'll be proud that I actually did a jump (no grabs though). I had previously said that Swakop is where the sand dunes meets the ocean... well, I didn't get a real taste of this until going quad biking (ATVing) through the Namib desert. 120ccs of exhileration. I had moments where I felt control of my surrondings... something I've been lacking from work.

Fish and Chips and burgers and marshmallows and smores by a campfire was Sunday night as we chatted about our favourite restaurants in Toronto. But whether it was the sunset over the ocean, the full moon you can see even before it gets dark, the billion more stars in the sky, or the 6:30 sunrise that seemed make-believe, I came to a realization. It isn't always about changing the world here, but sometimes, just leaving your footprints in the sand.

Some photos of this weekend are uploaded.

In Swakop

Gosh, this place is amazing. We haven't travelled for almost a month now (other than in Windhoek) so I've been looking forward to this. Swakop is at the west coast of Namibia, where the ocean meets the sand dunes.

We're staying at a house by the ocean (for 6$ cdn a night) and our backyard is the beach... I guess that makes it a beach house. The city here is nothing like Windhoek. First of all, the houses don't have electric fences (not to say that it isn't a dangerous place of course). The houses are pretty much mansions here. You can tell that the well off ones are here. I had to remind myself I was in Africa again.

Tomorrow we're heading to the dunes for sandboarding in the morning. Then, on Sunday, we're going quadbiking in the dunes. I can't wait. I bought a disposible camera so the sand doesn't get in my camera. I'll have loads more pictures to put up when my supervisor brings my laptop... then I'll go somewhere with wireless internet. :P

In the next month, we'll be doing some more travelling as well. Possibly Victoria Falls (Zambia), Okavango Delta (Botswana) and Etosha National park (Namibia). That should take up a good couple weekends.

SHOUTOUT: Happy (pre)Birthday Amanda! Love/Miss you.

Posted pictures... finally

Look up my picasa album for some SA photos... more to come (really this time)

http://picasaweb.google.com/jono.chiu/SACapeTown#

Hertz

So, on saturday, we rented a a car from Hertz and I drove stick for the first time... pretty fun I must say. And we drove to a game park for a hike and spotted some wild animals. Then went up to Heroes Acre, a monument of heroes from Namibia that fought for independence. Sunday, we took a truck up to the top of a mountain and had dinner at the top while watching the sun set.

This week's busy 'cause the Qamar (the pharmacist is not around)... we're playing pharmacist for the week. On friday, we're taking a long weekend trip to the coast (where the sand dunes meet the ocean) and going to stay at a beach house. It's kind of the first bit of travelling for the past month.

Oh, and watched transformers last night... not bad action scenes, but seriously no plot.

Happy Canada Day y'all. We're having a Canada Day Party tomorrow night... I think like 70 people are invited to cram into our small place.

Oh, and I found a fast internet place so maybe I'll finally put some photos up.

Back of a truck

So now that all that orientation is done and said, so much has happened in merely 2 weeks.

Let's just get right down to it. Vince and I work at an ARV clinic. I've met and spoken to HIV patients but never in this environment. Every single patient that walks through the pharmacy has been diagnosed as HIV positive. It was a bit ridiculous because the first 2 days, we just got thrown into it all. We were dispensing medication with no supervision after 2 hours of "training"... which really was just observation. I won't lie, it was daunting at first and still is after 2 weeks.


On the friday, after arriving at work early, we got into the back of a pick-up truck (... literally in the trunk) and rode 90km out into the countryside into Dordabis(sp.) with 1 doctor, 1 nurse, 1 pharmacy technician and 1 community counsellor. We drove through the desert to a small village where we dispensed ARVs to a small rural community. It was our 3rd day on the job. It was also an eye opening experience to see so many unemployed, sick individuals, unable to travel to the city clinics. This bi-weekly project is funded by PEPFAR, UNAIDS and some other governmental agencies.

To summarize this past week's work, we did pre-test counselling, testing, post-test counselling, and adherence counselling. This is from the moment the patient enters the pharmacy, to doing a rapid blood screening test, to informing them they have HIV to making sure they understand the treatment and the disease and making sure they are adherent to the medications. I watched as young couple in their 20s came in together to get tested and them were told they were positive. Their smiles disappearing from their faces with stunned silence. However, a surprising number of them are very accepting of the disease. 7 out of 8 people I saw tested were positive... something the nurses called "a bad day".

What is really sad is when the young ones come in. Today, a 5 year old girl was brought in for adherence counselling. She was escorted by whom I thought was her mom. I found out later from the counsellor that the mother refuses to see the doctor, refuses testing and refuses treatment. The child fell asleep in her aunt's arms and wakes up to her own cough. But as she walks out the door in her socks and pink sandals, you can tell that she is still unbeknownst of the whole "HIV" thing.

Our research is starting to take shape and we've luckily been able to adapt some of the work from Jess and Ruby's work (last year's interns - thanks guys). We've shown our supervisors as well as nursing students (our UNAM partners) and they seem very receptive to our ideas. I hope all will go as planned with as little hiccups as possible.

Other random things that have happened this past week: Saw a barbeque made out of a shopping cart, children getting tested for HIV, went to a poetry show for the first time (uggh - not a fan), got lost while jogging around our place and had to take a taxi home cause it got too dark, bought some street kids fried chicken and french fries, and more things that words just can't describe.

... one of these days I'll find time to post pictures.

Finally in Windhoek (Namibia)

So after a backbreaking 20 hour bus ride driving from Cape Town, South Africa through the deserts into Windhoek, Namibia, we’ve finally arrived! Professor Lee was already at the bus station waiting for our arrival with a large van. We first went straight to the UNAM Village (our home for the next 10 weeks). It is so much nicer here than I could have ever imagined. Couple of key features I love: huge kitchen, own bathroom in our room and large backyard for barbeques.
Item number 2 = cell phones. We went and shopped around to see which carriers had the best deals and picked up a SIM card for our cell phones. My number is 0814479715. ... Random note: I miss my iPhone.

Next = food. We had some free time so picked up some groceries. Not cheap atall. But I picked up the basics milk, eggs, bread and of course, spices :P

Went to orientation at UNAM (University of Namibia) and met our supervisors. Then headed to grab a seafood dinner with the group. It was nothing compared to Kalk Bay though. Our whole group right now is made of 11 UofT Students: 5 of which are moving up to Northern Namibia (in Oshakati) on Wednesday while the rest of us are staying in the ‘big’ city (Windhoek).It’s cold here at night, but my amazing mummy-sized sleeping bag is serving me well. During the days though, it gets to 20+ C, so t-shirt weather.

... gotta run, more to come.

Week in review

Cape Town. What can I say about Cape town.

These are the things we did: Went to Cape point (southern tip of South Africa), saw African Penguins (also known as Jackass Penguins, really!), ate at a fancy restaurant called Jardine, had breakfast at the bakery there as well, ate Bunny Chow for the first time (it's not what you think it is), toured the winelands of Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franchoek, had a lot of wine, cheese and chocolate, saw a goat drink the urine of another goat, took a video of that, got lotsa mosquito bites at the hostel, walked up to the posh Kloof Street for more food and shopping, played card games with the girls, ate "Simba" chips for the first time (like ruffles, but more cheesy and with a picture of a lion on the front, lol), visited some museums about Slavery, briefly walked through the colourful streets of Bo Kaap (area with mostly Muslims), toured the townships of Cape Flats (area where the poorest of the poor live). I really saw the disparities between the rich and the poor. We learn a lot about poverty in school and from the media, but I never really knew what that meant until I got here.

There must be more, but I've already forgotten most of it.

An awesome day

Finally got to go to Kalk Bay, been wanting to for a while. The small town was quaint, if I could've, I'd give it a hug. As we walked along the docks, we took pictures of a seal swimming along the side. We had seafood straight from today's catch: fish and chips with calamari and grilled prawns. Freshest stuff ever. Then, we headed for some homemade ice cream at the nearby Ice Cafe - among the selection, honeycomb... mmmm. Took the train back to Cape town and got into 1st class unknowingly... got kicked out into the "economy" class in the back cart. You can really tell the class differences here physically (race-wise) and just by walking down the street you get the sense of a struggle and tension in the air. It's actually a lot more UNsafe here than I thought. We try not to go out at night too much and definitely avoid certain areas. However, met some amazing Capetonians on the train. Saw some gorgeous grafitti along the way to Kalk and rode right along the coast of the Atlantic.

Hopped on a taxi when we got back to Cape Town and zoomed our way to Signal Hill to see the sunset. From the glow of table mountain, the shadows of the Fifa 2010 stadium, the colour changes in the clouds and the sparkling city lights, it was breathtaking. Locals were smart and brought their own wine/champagne glasses to toast the sun going down.

As to think the night had already ended, we headed to Mama Africas, a restaurant across our hotel, for dinner where there was a live African band playing reggae while the singer sang opera music. Tried Poitke (sp) for the first time, a wild game stew and then crashed at the hostel.

This city is just plain out -beautiful. If not for the crime, I'd probably want to move here.

Jon is feeling bad

We arrived in Capetown yesterday and the view was stunning, the sun is shining, the temperature is cool and ocean is beautiful...however, Jon is nothing but a giant storm cloud right now hovering over the city. Me thinks Jon is sick, either the medical kind, or the home variety.

Went to Robben Island today to see Mandela's prison cell and to listen to the stories of the past inmates there. It's pretty moving to learn about their struggles and to know that many of our guides were once jailed there and walking us through the very same halls and yards.

Spent the rest of the day wandering Capetown, sucks when everything closes at 4pm and the sun sets by 6 because no one walks around the city at night who isn't carrying weapons. On the plus sides, seems like every local we see thinks we know kung fu and yells to us "ching chong ching, China" or something to that effect.

That's it for now, more later as we fight our way through africa...

Overnight Safari Adventure

We signed up for Orient Tours - took a Toyota Land Cruiser 45 km into the deserts of Dubai where we went for an offroad tour around the sand dunes. For a Toyota, it was surprisingly rugged and withstood a lot of s$#%. Activities we did were: camel riding, sandboarding, sheesha's (Vince's fave), all you can eat barbeque buffet as the sun set (great lamb and tandoori chicken). After the huge dinner, a belly dancer came out and we all sat around watching. Both of us even did a little shake ourselves (lol).

The tour was pretty big (50+ people, 10 Land cruisers). But most people left after 9pm except for us and a Japanese couple (who were NOT umbrellas). They threw us open a tent and we stole some Arab robes to really act out the scene (you need to see the photo). Slept under the stars but every 10 minutes, an Emirates flight would roar across the sky above us.

We crawled out of the tent at 5am to catch the sunrise. Breathtaking. Had a nice breakfast (which we have been skipping for most of this trip) then went to a village called Mileha where we took pictures at Camel Rock overlooking the red sand dunes. It is basically a huge rock shaped like a camel with 1 hump.

I have to say, that was the best night of the trip so far. Definitely worth the 380 Dirhams.

When we left, the driver drove the Japanese couple to their hotel first. They were living at the Atlantis Hotel (at the Palm Islands, so jealous) so we got a couple nice pics. Went back to our hotel (Residence Le Meridien, great studio style with kitchenette and cheap too) and just slept until 2pm. Going to see if we can take some close-up pictures of the Burj Dubai (World tallest structure - CN Tower, suck that!).

Pics after we get into Cape Town Tomorrow night. Looking forward to another Emirates flight.

Going for lunch now:
Yesterday's lunch = Schwarmas
Yesterday's pre-dinner = Schwarmas
Today's lunch and dinner = Schwarmas
... Hey, they're only 4 Dirhams = 1.3 Cdn

The triad - Pakistanis, Chinese and Arabs.

Havent updated in couple days. Has been hard to get internet here in Dubai. Finally found a place around Deira. The Dubai airport is friggin HUGE with its own waterfall. Even the baggage claim area had its own palm trees. The Emirates flight was fancy, serving some little free bottles of Baileys and Rum. Jon loved the airplane food. And you can even play video games between passengers on their individual screens. There is a camera that shows you the view from below and in front of the plane.

 

Dubai equals Hot. It was 39 yesterday afternoon and that was a good day. We went the the Mall of Emirates and saw the ski slopes. Vince wanted to go... We took a taxi ride (87 DHS) to the Palm Islands as well as a drive around to see the different buildings. Then at sunset, we took a private romantic (lol) sunset boat ride along the Dubai creek for an hour and just absorbed the Dubian atmosphere. Dinner was in the middle of the street and included a whole roast chicken with pita, salad and hummus.

 

Walked around the souks (markets) this morning and Jon bought vanilla beans, saffron and a giant coconut. There are so many pakistani, bagladeshi, indian, sri lankans and chinesians here... all selling fake chinese goods.

 

 We are heading for a desert safari tonight with camel rides, sandboarding and sleeping under the stars.

 

Ciao for now. Vince & Jon.

 

PS. Sorry, no pic today.

Paddington Station

Woke up late, again. But in time for an 11am tour of the BBC Televison Station. Took a picture with the Tardis from Doctor Who. Won a BBC pen in a fake game show. Went to Paddington station in search for paddington bear, couldn't find him, he's probably still lost. Went to Nottinghill in search for the bookstore from the movie. Instead, found the Portabello Market and a tasty chicken leg sandwich. Checked out the British Museum. Vince oggled over the Egyption mummies, until they kicked us out, which wasn't long. Had Bulgogi and V had kimchi beef soup for dinner. Went back to McDonalds to use the free WiFi and plan our next destination - Dubai.

The week has gone by quick. Feels like we spent most of it either walking, sitting on a bus or getting lost in the underground.

Meeting the Royal Family

Fashion Show... of sorts

Day 4 already. Cancelled on Ramsay today. Went to Borough market for lunch instead and was more than impressed. Apparently it's where Jamie used to shop, no run-ins though. Vince bought a Paddington bear at Selfridges. Saw Johnny Woo's tranny fashion show there as well... yes you heard me (was their 100th birthday or something). Went to Brick Lane for curry. Wicked was wicked. Had a late night box of 20 nuggets... feel sick now... no help from Vince, of course. Saw some crazies at MacDo's and some lady trying to steal a McTasty meal. Security came, but she ran off.

Our feets hurt. J&V.

At the London Apple Store

Just woke up from a 30 minute bus ride to Oxford Street. Watching Wicked tonight.

Ramsay

Day 3: Walked a bunch more in the morning around Hyde and Kensington Park. Took stupid/funny pictures. Shopped a bunch at Harrods. Saw the paparazzi mob some celeb entering Dolce and Gabbana. Made reservations for lunch at Ramsay on Royal Hospital Road. Was late. Got kicked out of Gordon Ramsay`s restaurant! 

But still lov'in it here. J & V.

Fish and Chips

Day 2: Walked a LOT. Tried some typical English food... Meat pies and mash for lunch, Fish and Chip for dinner, went up the London eye, came down the london eye. Strolled around Tate Modern in the late afternoon. Took some pictures of the London "Tower" Bridge. Took lots of pictures of the city.

Arrived in London

Day 1: Arrived late, threw all our stuff down at the apartment, met up with Scott (my friend from WHO) and had drinks and some good conversation, walked around Trafalgar, walked to Picadilly, walked around Covent Garden, caught the last train home and crashed.